The European Christmas markets over the years have steadily increased in popularity. Visiting the Christmas Markets in Europe was high on my bucket list. Most countries in Europe have markets on display; however, there were three countries in particular I wanted to visit: FRANCE, GERMANY, and SWITZERLAND. My fiancé and I booked a 10-day European Christmas Markets Trip with these particular stops: Paris (France), Colmar (France), and Zurich (Switzerland). Being located in Colmar, I was able to take a day trip to Freiburg (Germany), Basel (Switzerland) and Eguisheim (France). That’s how I was able to see a lot of markets in just 10 days.
If you are looking to Christmas Market hop in 2020, be sure to email me (cassandra@accent-on-travel.net). I can offer my best quote with flexible payment plans. It’s very easy to work with me and there’s no cost to you as I get paid from my suppliers. Here is the itinerary!
Day 1 – Fly to Paris
The first day was just driving up from Richmond, VA to Washington, DC. We flew out on Black Friday and I’m guessing everyone already got their shopping in. Hardly any traffic at all which was rare! We flew Air France and I must say I’m very impressed with them. My clients already know I’m a huge Skymiles fan (Delta, Air France, KLM, etc.) and it’s no surprise this was my airline of choice. Plus, it was non-stop from IAD Dulles Airport. The Skymiles team always has a great in-flight entertainment selection of movies, music, and games. A choice of dinner was offered onboard complimentary – chicken with a cream sauce or a gnocchi dish. Overall, it was a great flight!
Day 2 – Arrive in Paris
We arrived to CDG Airport early in the morning, around 8:05 AM. Took our airport transfer and headed to the hotel. Uber is widely available throughout Paris; though the airport is large. I recommend pre-booking a car to help you navigate safely to your hotel and without chaos. We stayed at the Best Western Quartier Latin Pantheon. I’m sure you’re probably thinking… you go all the way to Paris and stay at a Best Western? The hotel is a “Best Western PLUS” which is your more upgraded version. It was very nice and sold at a great price. The only downside to mention is that the bathroom was always FREEZING. The bathroom window opened up where you could go on the balcony (see pic above!), causing it to be very drafty. Getting naked to take a shower in 20/30 degree F weather was quite challenging.
The city of Paris is broken up into different “arrondissements” which are essentially neighborhoods. Fun fact: There are a total of 20 arrondissements total. After much research with past clients, I decided to book our stay in the Latin Quarter which is the 5th arronndissement. With neighborhood charm, a bit slower way of life, and less crowds it truly was perfect. There were many bistros to pop into for a croissant indulgence or espresso warming. We dropped off our bags and explored the neighborhood. I loved seeing the different boulangeries (bakeries) and patisseries (pastry shops). The smells just permeate through the doorway. There were many shops selling “Sapin de Noel” which translates to Christmas fir. Meaning a Christmas tree! We saw some locals walking around with their newly purchased tree ready to decorate. This European Christmas Markets trip was off to a good start.
Free Walking Tour – Latin Quarter
With only 4 nights in Paris, I wanted to use my time wisely. Arriving early in the morning, I booked us a free walking tour of the Latin Quarter. HERE IS A LINK to Discover Walk’s website. They are student / young professional led tours that allow you to see different parts of the city. Quick tip: check and see if there’s a free walking tour where you’re going. Most larger cities offer them and it’s a great way to see the city from a local’s perspective. At the end of the tour, you simply tip the amount you feel is right based on your experience. The recommended abount is about $10 – $15 USD per person for a 90-minute tour.
This Latin Quarter tour is offered daily at 2:30 PM. It’s 90 minutes long and they take you all around the important sites of the Latin Quarter like the Notre Dame, Pantheon, and Eglise Saint-Sevérin.
Dinner
The first dinner of our European Christmas Markets trip was spent in the Latin Quarter neighborhood of our hotel. My recommendation on your first day there is to take it slow. Just focus on exploring your local neighborhood wherever your hotel is located. You don’t need to visit the Eiffel Tower the first day you arrive. You will likely be exhausted from all of the traveling anyway. We found a local bistro near the hotel called Bistro Du Marche. It was a quick 2-minute walk from the hotel. Perfect for a cold day. We enjoyed a fois gras appetizer, duck and steak frites. The fois gras was very rich and overpowering. But slabbed on some crusty French bread it was delicious.
Day 3 – Eiffel Tower, Louvre Museum, Escargot
Day 3 of our European Christmas Markets trip took us to the Eiffel Tower bright and early. We had a photoshoot with Marcus Heim, from The Parisian Photographers. I can’t recommend him enough. Marcus was easy to communicate with throughout. He also sent us our photos 1 week after the shoot. The photoshoot took place at the famous Trocadero Steps and lasted an hour. The Trocadero Steps are located in the 16th arrondissement. Overall, it was a great way to get up close and personal to the Eiffel Tower.
Professional Photography
My clients are increasingly booking professional photographers to capture their memories. I love being able to assist them and set everything up. It’s a great way to capture your trip and I highly recommend it. Often times, we rarely get any good photos of us because we are too busy trying to capture the scenery or our food! All photographers will require a deposit up front that you can securely Paypal them. Remaining balance is paid in local euros after the photoshoot. A little freezing rain didn’t stop us 🙂
After our photoshoot, we walked around the Trocadero neighborhood a bit. According to the internet, Trocadero is one of the richest arrondissements of Paris. It was nice to walk around there. There are many vendors sprawled out selling the same Eiffel Tower items, but I found none of them pushy. We left the Trocadero neighborhood for the 1st arronndissement known for Tuileries, Les Halles, and of course the Louvre Museum. The 1st arrondissement is home to the Ponts des Arts Bridge which is where the locks were originally found. Though, you cannot add your lock to the bridge there anymore. You will see PLENTY of locks scattered around the city though so no worries. The idea behind it is to “lock” up your love and throw away the key in a nearby river (or trashcan?).
Louvre Museum Tour
We enjoyed lunch at a restaurant near the Louvre called Le Corona Paris. I’m sure it’s what you’d called a “tourist trap” given the close proximity to the museum. But I found the croque monsieur delicious and had a bite of Corey’s savory crepe. Overall, we found the food good. With our tour checkin at 2:30PM we made our way over to the museum. My first thought was Holy Sh** this is huge. I know it’s the world’s largest museum but it didn’t dawn on me just how big it was. We met our tour guide at the Arc de Triomphe du Carousel. It’s a mini Arc de Triomphe replica and is exactly parallel to the real one. It is the smallest of the 3 arches.
It was time for the Last Entry Skip The Line Louvre Tour to began. I booked this tour with Viator but the company they outsourced was Walks Paris. I cannot recommend this tour enough. Typically, my mantra in life is “early bird gets the worm.” Not at the Louvre. It’s best to have the last entry ticket meaning a 3-hour tour that ends at closing time. That way the crowds to get to Mona Lisa are smaller than typical. It took us maybe 10 minutes to get up close to her.
There are now organized lines and a security guard telling you when your selfie time is up. I’m not a history buff (my fiance is) but even I enjoyed the tour. I thought 3 hours would miserable but it went by pretty quick. Our tour guide, Susan, was very passionate about the arts. She told us back stories behind each painting and sculpture.
Escargot Dinner
We left the museum at 6PM (closing times fluctuate based on the day of week). It was time for dinner! Before we left for Europe, I looked into nearby restaurants and stumbled across L’escargot Montorgueil. It’s on this adorable street (Rue Montorgueil) and has been serving up snails since the 1830s. You can’t miss this restaurant – there’s a large golden snail on the top of it! Reservations are strongly recommended. Y’ALL! I sampled my FIRST ESCARGOT EVER!
Overall, I didn’t love it or hate it. Seeing the shell freaked me out a little. I had to tell myself they were just “mushrooms’ because that’s what the texture seemed like to me. Not quite solid, a little squishy. Hearty. I stuck with the “traditional” snails consisting of a garlic butter and pesto sauce. Admittedly, I had to spit the first one out. But after the second it got easier. When in Rome, right? The rest of the night was spent relaxing at the hotel.
Day 4 – Haussman Blvd, Champs-Élysées, Dinner Cruise
No trip to Paris would be complete without a little retail therapy. If you don’t have the extra budget to give to shopping (like planning a wedding!) it’s just as fun to window shop. Today, I wanted to spend some time around the 8th and 9th arrondissements. These neighborhoods consist of your high end shopping, Arc De Triomphe, and major department stores. Paris is of course the city of lights, but it sparkles a LOT brighter at Christmas. If you are OK with the cold, you’re rewarded in sites.
Haussman Blvd
The first stop was the 9th arrondissement to pay a visit to Haussman Blvd. Here, you can visit two of Paris’ biggest department stores: Printemps and Galeries Lafayette. Printemps was the first stop, because I wanted to visit the rooftop for some great city views. Printemps is very high end and you’re going to find mostly luxury goods here. Certainly out of my price point but with NINE FLOORS it was fun to explore. Some stores you will find here include Fendi, Louis Vuitton, Christian Louboutin, and Salvatore Ferragamo. After window shopping and snapping some rooftop views, we headed next door to Galeries Lafeyette.
Galeries Lafayette was a “must see” for me. In my mind, it was a mall with different stores but I was wrong. It’s a department store, similar to a Macy’s. Around Christmas, you’ll find there HUGE Christmas tree sparkling. Every so often the light show will go on and the tree changes colors. Fun fact: Galeries Lafayette hosts an inexpensive “fashion show” every Friday. It used to be free but now I believe you have to reserve with a ticket. If anyone can speak on that in the comments below, please feel free! Our European Christmas Markets trip wouldn’t have been complete without a stop here.
Champs-Élysées Avenue
After spending some time in the 9th arrondissement window shopping, we headed to the 8th arrondissement. Again, this is where you’ll find the largest Arc de Triomphe monument. It’s also home to the luxury stores for anyone looking to see and be seen. This is actually where the Louis Vuitton flaship standalone store is. You’ll see a long line of travelers waiting to get inside. It was almost like watching people trying to get entry to a nightclub. Either way, a stroll along this route is magical. It’s even more magical at Christmas time!
One of the quintessential eating experiences on Champs-Élysées Avenue is macarons! The delicious almond flour shells filled with heavenly meringue. There is an ongoing debate amongst travelers regarding who has the best macarons: Laduree vs. Pierre Herman vs. Carette. With that said, I chose LADUREE to try out! The pastel-colored building lined amongst the Champs-Elysees avenue. Even if they aren’t considered the “best” or “most authentic” they have a great ambiance to make up for it! There are two sections within the restaurant – one to dine in and eat. The other to grab your macarons and go! We chose the latter.
In the photo below (from left to right) the flavors I went with are: Pecan Maple Syrup, Lemon, Raspberry, Passion Fruit, Pistachio, and Rose. My top favorite was pistachio and least favorite was pecan maple syrup. Next time, I want to try Vanilla! I know there’s a Laduree store in DC so may have to stop in and pay them a visit soon.
Dinner Cruise
Corey and I went on a dinner cruise around the Seine River. The company we went with was Bateaux Parisians. Dinner was delicious and this cruise offered a great way to see the Eiffel Tower and some other buildings lit up at night. The dinner pairings were excellent and for $85 USD per person, it came with a 3-course prix fixe dinner and tons of wine. It was a very romantic cruise that came complete with Christmas music. 10/10 would recommend. HERE IS MY FULL REVIEW on the dinner cruise. Check it out!
TIP: Every night on the hour (for about 5 minutes) you can catch the famous light show. Where the Eiffel Tower lights up quickly in its bright gold splendour. Don’t miss it!
Day 5 – Fragonard Perfume Museum, Montmartre
Day 5 of our European Christmas Markets trip started off at the Fragonard Museum (Fragonard Musée du Parfum). The museum is located right next to Opera Garnier, located in the 9th arrondissement. We paid $8 USD per person for a 30-minute tour of the museum. A small surprise gift was included with the purchase. We learned a lot about the history of perfume and how marketing over the year has changed it. There was a scent-test game where we smelled 10 different samples and had to guess the aroma/flavor. It was a great way to spend the morning. Then we cabbed it over to Montmartre.
Montmartre & Pigalle
The Montmartre & Pigalle neighborhoods are located in the 18th arrondissement. When you arrive you’ll see a different vibe there. It doesn’t have the glitz and glamour that the Champs-Élysées Avenue. It’s a little more gritty here, in the best of ways. In Pigalle, there’s a red-light district vibe. You’ll see a bunch of sex shops and live entertainment studios. If I had more time to spend here I would’ve popped in just to check it out and be nosy.
Our free Montmartre walking tour began around 2:30 PM. We used the same company as the free Latin Quarter Walking Tour – Discover Walks. Our tour guide was very passionate about the area. Montmartre is an artists’ dream. I’m told the rent has skyrocketed and it may not be the best place for a starving artist anymore. I’m sure at one point in time this was an up and coming neighborhood. It’s very popular now, mostly due to the Moulin Rouge (“Red Windmill”) cabaret show.
After a nice 90-minute tour on art history and current life in Montmartre, we ended the tour at the beautiful Basilica de Sacré-Cœur. We strolled around on our own getting lost and visiting the famous Place du Tertre. It’s a popular square known for its artists all set up ready to draw you. Or… whatever inspiration they have at that time. The rest of the night was spent enjoying a nice dinner in this neighborhood and calling it an early night.
Day 6 – Colmar Christmas Markets
Early in the morning we went to Gare du Lyon train station to catch our train to Colmar, France. I remember being so grateful that this was the day before the STRIKE IN FRANCE! It was crazy how so many flight/metro/train services were delayed and cancelled due to this strike. Another reason to have travel insurance when you travel. #ExpectTheUnexpected. Colmar is a great little town in France located in the Alsace Region. It borders Germany and Switzerland and is a nice mixture of the 3 countries. This is the part of the European Christmas Markets trip where we really get to see how the markets are done. Paris had a few different markets but not like the smaller/local towns.
Essentially, the architecture looks German, they speak French, and the food has some influences from all 3 places (and Italy). When we arrived to Colmar, we ended up taking an Uber to the hotel which was pretty comical. It took us longer to wait for our Uber than it did to get to our hotel. We later found out that there are only a handful of Uber drivers in Colmar! Crazy. We ended up walking everywhere once we got to our hotel – much quicker.
Plus, it was a nice ambiance to walk around and see the Christmas Markets. Many fun things to see and taste. In the evening, there were children ice skating, and adults drinking gluhwein (mulled wine). Corey had to get his fill of churros. After dinner, we went to sleep to prep for our big tour the following day.
Fun Fact
Day 7 – Freiburg, Basel, and Eguisheim Christmas Markets
Day 7 of our European Christmas Markets trip took us to THREE different countries. You read that right… same day, 3 countries. Are we crazy? Yes, but the locations are close to eachother it was an easy day trip. We were able to visit Germany, Switzerland, and France in the same day. It was a great experience and I highly recommend booking this tour. The tour company is Alsace Original Experiences and the name of the tour is “Christmas Across the 3 Borders.” Our tour guide was Christopher and he was SUCH a joy to travel with.
We did not book a private tour, it was supposed to be shared. Sadly, 5 Australians who were supposed to join our tour got stuck in Paris due to the strike (no transportation available). It ended up just being just Christopher, Corey, and I. It was nice and intimate and we were able to pick Christopher’s brain on what life is like in Colmar. The tour took us to Freiburg, Basel, and Eguisheim. In the United States… it could take you a few days to drive up the coast of California!
Freiburg, Germany
Our first stop on the “Christmas Across the 3 Borders” tour was in Freiburg, Germany. It’s a cute little city in southwest Germany’s Black Forest. The Black Forest is known for quite a few things but one of the items they’re known for is their cuckoo clocks. This medieval old town is very historic and you’ll even find names of the Holocaust survivors laid within the brick of certain streets. It can be a street out front of the house they used to live in or in front of the business they used to own. Walking this town was like taking a step back in time. We started our tour at the Gothic cathedral Freiburg Minster, which towers over the central square Münsterplatz. We ended the tour with delicious bratwursts. I couldn’t tell you the type it was but it was delicious.
It was just fun to walk through the markets and look at what was available. Different heavenly-smelling soaps, cuckoo clocks, winter gear like hats and gloves. There was also an assortment of both sweet and savory food. Of course they sold bratwursts and all types of meats, lots of jams/jellies. I also saw a ton of mulled wine for sale! 🍷
Fun Fact
Basel, Switzerland
We left Germany and headed to Switzerland. Since Switzerland is not apart of the European Union, a passport is technically required by vehicle. We drove right past the gates though as there was no one working the border. I guess since they’re such a neutral country these formalities aren’t that necessary. Meanwhile on the U.S. / Mexico border…
We arrived in Basel, Switzerland and my first thought is that it’s a mixture of historic and modern. On one side, you see H&M and current retail stores and on the other side you see a historic church and Christmas markets. For a large city, it also looked very clean. Like sparkling clean. You’ll see the Rhine River running through the middle. I was told that in the summer, some locals swim in this river to get to/from work, purely for tradition.
After viewing yet another historic church, we made it to this fun bubble-blowing Santa. Kids just lit up around him. The markets here seemed more spread out than they did at Freiburg but offered similar items. Of course in Switzerland they’re known for their chocolate so that was available for purchase. You could enjoy sweet crepes.
Eguisheim, France
We left Switzerland and headed back to France, stopping at Eguisheim. When I talk about the quintessential picturesque markets, Eguisheim definitely comes to mind. It’s small and quaint but ambiance on a grand scale. Eguisheim is a medieval village in the Alsace wine region (the same region as Colmar). The narrow, concentric streets of its old town are lined with many preserved half-timbered houses. There are ruins here (Three Castles of Eguisheim), which date from the Middle Ages.
Our tour guide, Christopher, pointed out these huge birds nests on the roofs of homes. Apparently, this Alsace region is home to many storks! I found that interesting. Storks, in my mind, are fictional characters that bring babies to people’s doorsteps. But wow, guess they are real! LOL And they can birth about 2-3 birds at a time so you can imagine the size of the nest. After walking around, and enjoy a sweet gingerbread man, it was back home to Colmar for the night. Christpher booked us a table at this incredible Italian restaurant
Disney Fun Fact
Day 8 – Arrive in Zurich
Day 8 of our European Christmas Markets trip was chaotic. Due to the strike, our train from Colmar to Basel was cancelled. The only option was a 6:51 AM train so we had to re-book (lost about $60 USD, could be worse). So we left very early to get to Basel. Then the trains from Basel to Zurich ran every 30 minutes so there was no specific time. You just got on the train heading there and kept it moving. I will say Rail Europe, and the train system in general, was a little stressful. It was a struggle mainly because of language barriers. In Paris, everyone pretty much spoke English. But as you stay on the France/Germany/Switzerland border the likelihood of hearing an English speaker was pretty rare.
So we made it to Zurich and checked into the Best Western Plus Zuercherhof. This hotel is another “PLUS” and was wonderful. The staff there is so kind. After we checked in, we explored the city. For lunch, we tried raclette. I know cheese fondue is popular in Zurich, but we were told by locals to try raclette instead. It’s a cheese that you make in a little mini oven until it bubles over. Then on the top you grill meat and veggies. We ate at Enzian Restaurant which was a quick walk from the hotel.
Swarovski Christmas Tree
The Christmas Markets in Zurich are lovely, set along the water. If you’re staying in Zurich around the holidays, be sure to visit their famous Christmas tree decorated with Swarovski crystals. That alone, should give you a heads up as to the high cost of Switzerland. It’s a beautiful, clean, and safe country but the price tag is quite steep. Switzerland is not apart of the European Union and they do not use the euro. Their currency is Swiss francs. We did not get away from a meal without at least 35 francs per person (for both lunch and dinner). Very pricey! We tried to tip around 10%.
Day 9 – Zurich Tour
Today was spent at leisure and it was nice. Just walking around without a tour and a specific place to be. We did participate in a free walking tour. Surprise, surprise! So that was a nice 90-minute tour to get a feel for the city. Afterwards, went for a nice Italian restaurant (which was probably the best meal of the entire trip, sorry Paris!). Since Switzerland is close to Italy, I highly recommend trying some authentic Italian food.
Day 10 – Fly Back Home
Today was our last day (womp womp). We got to the airport 3 hours prior to our flight, and completed our last minute souvenir shopping. Just a heads up, we went through THREE different security checks at this airport. I recommend arriving VERY early to the airport.
Planning your trip to Europe?
